The Simplest Trout Recipe Is Also the Best

WHEN YOU HAVE fish that’s absolutely fresh and pristine, chef Matt Kelly believes you should keep the preparation as simple as possible. So the first step to making his third, utterly unfussy Slow Food Fast recipe is obtaining the freshest trout you can find.

In Durham, N.C., Mr. Kelly obtains his from fresh waters within the state. Wherever you happen to live, he advised, rely on a trusted fishmonger rather than a grocery store. “Look for firm flesh,” he said. “And you don’t want any funny scent or discoloration on the trout.”…

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